Best of Washington DC
Shaw and U Street: Washington DC's Black Cultural Heritage
Shaw and the U Street Corridor constitute Washington DC's most historically significant African American cultural district — the neighbourhood that Duke Ellington called home, where the Lincoln Theatre hosted Ella Fitzgerald, Sarah Vaughan, and Cab Calloway, and where the Howard Theatre was the premier venue on the Chitlin' Circuit that sustained Black entertainment culture during segregation. The African American Civil War Memorial and Museum at 10th and U Street NW documents the 209,145 United States Colored Troops who served in the Civil War — a history the nation has been slow to acknowledge — in a memorial and museum of considerable power. The Ben's Chili Bowl, open since 1958 and serving the Washington half-smoke and chili dog that are as close to an official food of the District as any dish can claim, represents the neighbourhood's survival through the 1968 riots that followed Martin Luther King Jr.'s assassination and its subsequent decades of decline before the current reinvention.
The reinvention of U Street as one of Washington's premier dining and entertainment districts has been both a cultural reclamation and a source of tension about displacement. The music venues — the 9:30 Club, a few blocks away on V Street, is consistently ranked among the finest rock venues in the United States — the cocktail bars, and the restaurants that have established themselves along U Street and the surrounding blocks draw a racially mixed crowd that represents Washington at its most cosmopolitan. The neighbourhood's African American community has maintained its presence through homeownership, community institutions, and the cultural memory that keeps Ben's Chili Bowl and the Lincoln Theatre operating as anchors of the district's identity amid the commercial change.
Howard University, the historically Black university established by Congress in 1867, occupies a campus northwest of the U Street corridor that has educated much of Black America's professional and intellectual class — its alumni include Thurgood Marshall, Toni Morrison, and Kamala Harris. The Moorland-Spingarn Research Center at Howard holds one of the world's largest collections of documentation on the history and culture of African Americans and people of African descent, making it one of the most important research archives in the country. The neighbourhood's galleries, community organisations, and the cultural programming of the African American Civil War Museum together maintain the historical consciousness that distinguishes Shaw as a neighbourhood with genuine depth rather than merely a revived commercial district.